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June
can be an iffy month
with lingering cold
and rain, but the
weather does turn
and the signs of summer
unfold: roses bloom,
the swimming pool
beckons, and, best
of all, strawberries
grow and ripen. These
heralds of summer
satisfy the senses:
the glistening red
fruit catches the
eye, sweet juicy flavor
saturates the taste
buds, and the gentle
fragrance makes them
irresistible.
These
first fruits of summer
are a hybrid of two
indigenous species: Fragaria
virginiana, the
meadow strawberry,
which is found
in open woodlands
along the east coast;
and F.
chiloensis, the
beach or sand
strawberry, which
hails from our
west coast and
South America.
The result was F.
x ananassa from
which all our
cultivated strawberries
descend. One of
the first cultivars
produced in America
in 1834 was the ‘Hovey’ by
a nurseryman
from nearby Cambridge
named William
Hovey. The nation’s
first strawberry
festival was
held in Belmont
in 1858.
Soft
fruits like strawberries
and other edible berrying
plants (or any fruits
for that matter) have
similar growing needs,
appreciating a sunny
location protected
from severe winter
winds and a well-drained
soil rich with organic
matter. If you only
have a small garden
or limited available
space, despair not,
because containers
will do nicely too.
If
you do want to plant
them in the ground,
clear the site of
weeds, particularly
the perennial types,
because once the runners
on strawberries get
entangled they are
a devil to sort out.
And avoid areas where
potatoes, tomatoes,
or eggplants and any
member of the Rosaceae
family were grown
as they carry a soil-borne
disease called verticillium
wilt to which strawberries
are particularly susceptible.
Procure only strawberry
varieties that are
disease resistant
and certified as virus-free
stock and, although
spring planting is
preferred, it’s
not too late now to
put some in as they
take about a year’s
growth before producing
fruit. Space plants
eighteen inches apart
with three feet between
rows and make sure
the roots are well
spread out in the
planting hole, as
cramming them into
a tight space inhibits
good fruit production.
Top-dress well with
good organic matter
and finish with straw
mulch. A dose of potassium
sulfate in early spring
gives flavor a boost.
Plants are productive
for about three to
five years and runners
can be rooted annually
to create new plants.
Fruits start out green,
then turn white, maturing
to red; before picking,
they should be mostly
red with a firm, plump
feel. Unlike many
other fruits they
will not ripen after
picking.
Next
on the berry “must
have” list
are blueberries,
which not only provide
fruit but are wonderful
ornamental bushes.
Even if you don’t
like them, plant
a bush just for
the
wildlife to enjoy.
The native high
bush
blueberry, Vaccinium
corymbosum, is
a common plant
of our woodlands
with an upright
habit rising to
about six feet.
Its cousin, Vaccinium
angustifolium,
produces smaller,
intensely flavored
fruit and can be
found in scrubby
areas in parts
of Maine. Known
as the low bush
blueberry,
it grows one to
two
feet high and
spreads
via underground
stems,
so its mat-like
formation
makes a good ground
cover. There are
also half high
cultivar
hybridized types
that are suitable
for containers.
The high bush blueberry
has been extensively
bred so there
are
many cultivars
available
with a range of
flavor
and fruit production.
All blueberries
self
pollinate so one
bush will produce
fruits; however,
fruit production
does increase if
two different cultivars
are planted. High
bush blueberries
should be planted
approximately
five feet apart
and the crowns,
the base of the
plant where the
roots and stems
meet, should be
no more than one-half
inch below the
soil. Be sure to
mulch generously
to about four
inches.
Berries start
ripening
in July and by
planting
a few different
cultivars,
picking will last
right through
to September.
Brambles
conjure up thoughts
of thorns and barrier
plantings as they
lack the ornamental
attributes of other
berry plants, but
they do, in fact,
produce the most exquisite
fruits. The most commonly
grown bramble is the
red raspberry, Rubus
idaeus. The stems,
or canes, to these
plants are biennial,
meaning that in their
second year they die
back. Its roots, however,
are perennial. Thus,
the many cultivars
are either summer
bearers, fruiting
on the prior season’s
canes, or autumn bearers,
fruiting on the current
season’s
canes. Traditionally
raspberries are planted
eighteen to twenty-four
inches apart with
rows about five feet
apart. Mulch well
and keep the soil
moist during a dry
season. With the right
selection of cultivars
your raspberry picking
can last until October.
This is the summer
to try your trowel
on growing fruits – it’s
as easy as pie!
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